13

You're changing an awful lot of variables all at once, so your readings (and your nitrogen cycle) are likely way off. Slow down a bit, and let's look at the possibilities one at a time. First, most water treatments that neutralize ammonia work by converting the ammonia (NH3) into harmless ammonium (NH4+), which will by removed by your bio filters. The test ...


13

Don't panic, it's probably okay! The key thing here is that you caught the error and asked the question. I'll cover both bases here and try and explain a few things (forgive me if you already know them). Firstly, this is a good sized tank, so if you've only added a small amount of water, it probably won't make much difference. The dilution of the bottled ...


12

John Cavan's advice is good. Some additional advice that I learned the hard way after many years of owning 80 and 300 litre freshwater tanks: If you don't have a working understanding of pH, it is helpful to read up on it. A precise definition of pH is unnecessary; a good way to think of it is that pH measures the amount of free hydrogen atoms in the water. ...


10

Unfortunately I'd say no, not if you still have that much ammonia showing up. The rule of thumb I've seen is you should be able to add 2ppm ammonia and have it completely converted to nitrates within 24 hours. It's odd that you're seeing ammonia and nitrates at this stage: you tend to see the ammonia-consuming bacteria show up very quickly (see the graph ...


9

There are a few ways to reduce the frequency of water changes for your turtle. Just keep in mind there is no running away from water changes. Have an efficient biological filter: This very obvious way is probably the most important. I'm not particularly sure about the filter you have, but essentially in turtle tanks you want to cycle the water at least ...


9

One of the primary reasons for water changes is to remove harmful waste and chemical compounds from your tank that tend to build up over time. This is especially important in new aquariums where there aren't bacteria and an ecosystem in place to handle any of these compounds organically. There are two compounds in particular that most people target for ...


8

Check your water parameters, it should have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite. Some nitrate presence is not lethal as long as it's within the limit. Match the pH and temperature depending on the species you plan to put it. Water should not be cloudy. There should not be any bio-film forming on top of the aquarium. In case it forms, increase surface agitation. Make sure ...


8

At this stage, I would look to add fish and stop artificially adding ammonia to the system. Ideally, you want to start small, with a few hardy fish added to the tank, much less than your tank is expected to handle, and then begin adding more fish over the next few weeks as you system equalizes from the prior additions. Basically, you now want to slowly ...


8

It is special in a sense that most aquarium setups include a lot of equipment, mainly a filter; the filter facilitates cultivation of nitrifying bacteria that are responsible for neutralization of harmful waste products - ammonia and nitrite. Without a filter, they would quickly build up to toxic levels and kill all animal life in the aquarium. These ...


8

Fish swimming with their mouth constantly glued to water surface is a sign that they are gasping for breath. However, the reason for them being short for breath usually isn't the low oxygen concentration in the water itself, but toxic effect of water pollutants: ammonia (NH3), which burns fish's gills and disables them from extracting oxygen from the water; ...


7

You can buy a dissolved oxygen meter, but they'll generally start in the US$200 to US$400 range, and a suitable one I believe runs closer to US$500-600. Not exactly an everyday piece of equipment for a measurement you're going to take once. There are cheaper test kits designed for other applications, but those will only get you in the approximate ball park, ...


7

Water changes are almost what they sound like, you're changing the water in the tank. But, with very few exceptions, you never want to change more than 50% of the water in the tank. Water changes that replace a substantial percentage of tank's volume can cause the fish stress, and should really only be done in emergencies. Even if there is a problem with the ...


7

Firstly, I'll go for my old refrain "consistency is key". It's better to have consistent water parameters than changing them continually to 'chase the perfect conditions'. Firstly, your nitrite should be 0 if your tank is correctly cycled. Secondly, you haven't got a reading for ammonia there (which is one of the problems with the test strips). Ammonia, as ...


6

If I were to make a safe guess, it would be the tank cycle is not completed yet. If it is a matured tank, then something must have been disturbed which triggered the tank cycle to reset. If your tap water has high chlorine/chloramines, this could possibly kill the beneficial bacteria colony inside the filter. If you have washed your filter using tap water, ...


6

The appropriate pH level of the water does vary a bit by fish, but too acidic can definitely kill them. Any change in pH levels that you want to introduce should be done gradually to avoid a shock to the fish, but some ways to go about this include: Partial water changes, about 25% on a frequent basis. You don't have to change out the water completely, but ...


6

Soda water uses carbonic acid to produce CO2 so in theory it should work, but it is not that easy: carbonic acid is as the name says an acid, and any type of acid will lower the water's pH too fast for the fish and to some degree too fast for the plants to adapt to the changed pH. Carbonic acid dissolves calcium creating calcium carbonate, so if you have ...


6

The pH should not change more than 0,2 during 24 hours. If it is more, it can stress your fish. The goal is to have a neutral pH of 7,0 for most fish, but this is very dependent on the type of fish you have. Some need alkaline water, other acidic water (so just about now is a good time to read about your fish and their needs). The main reason for large ...


5

I highly doubt that water change would stress her that much. However here is what you do. Prepare gigantic batch of good water, get two tubes and another empty bucket. And then use dripping method. Let water drip into the tank from the good batch of water, and out of the tank into empty bucket. This will ensure that water is changed at an extremely slow pace....


5

I think either one could work for you without harming the fish. You could use bottled water and treat it like tap water. Since that's basically all it is. The only problem I'd see, is if the company puts in certain minerals to enhance the taste. They could mess with the chemistry of your tank, though probably not noticeably. On the other hand, distilled ...


5

When fish goes to the surface of the water there is some thing wrong, like the lack of oxygen or the presence of poisonous substances in the water. The water test you are using is not reliable and it does not measure ammonia, so it is better to use a liquid type of test kit. The API Quick Start is a bacteria mix and is used when one cycles the tank, a little ...


5

It sounds as though you already have a good knowledge of how water chemistry works. In basic terms, KH (carbonate hardness) affects how much the pH can change within the water. The presence of the carbonic acid in the water stops the pH from fluctuating wildly when it is influenced by CO2 or by other pH influencers. You'll probably be familiar with the ...


5

Firstly, thank you for reading about the nitrogen cycle before getting fish! That's a +1 straight away. Biofilter is a bit of a funny term, really, because all filters technically become biofilters as long as they have media that would allow beneficial bacteria to grow on it. A lot of your beneficial bacteria will also live in your substrate, if you have any,...


5

1. Get a water test and update your question with the readings of pH-ammonia-nitrite-nitrate. 2. Stop feeding your fish to get the bioload down. 3. Keep changing water 20% each day (use dechlorinator to treat the water) 4. Add aquarium salt to limit the damage of nitrite. You need to read this article at fishlore.com; even after you add nitrifying bacteria, ...


5

The first thing you need to do is to add some aquarium salt, this is done to counteract the effect of the nitrite on your fish' gills. The aquarium salt concentration to use is 0,3%. Do water changes 20% each day until the nitrite level drops, cut down on the feeding of your fish so you only feed twice a week and only a little food each time (this is to ...


4

Some signs of good water quality: The normal pH levels of 6.5-7.5; The normal temperature of around 25 degrees Celsius; no ammonia, nitrite or nitrates present; algae present in small, controlled quantities.


4

The info you've been given in the previous answers is good. Water that has a decent buffering capacity (generally lots of carbonates) will be more resistant to pH fluctuations than water that does not. (If your water is pH 7 straight out of the tap then it likely has little to no buffering capacity which could definitely account for your dramatic pH swings.) ...


4

You're correct about the oxygen. Warmer water dispels oxygen faster than cooler water. Sometimes the water returning from the filters is enough to add enough oxygen for fish, but sometimes it does help to add an air stone. Like you've discovered. I've heard of people keeping goldfish in the same temperature range as tropical fish, but in my opinion they ...


4

Lots of things can go wrong. Here are some ideas: pH or ammonia spike : The larger the tank, the less likely spikes are, but all of my catastrophic failures like this were due to spikes Power outage : If the power went out, all electrical components would stop functioning, like the heater, filter, aerator etc. Feeder malfunction : Especially if you haven't ...


4

First things first: your tank is not ready to house fish. When setting up a new tank, you need to cycle the water for a few weeks (typically a month or two) so beneficial bacteria can start to grow. These bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite and nitrite (which is toxic to fish) to nitrate. As long as you are seeing nitrite in your readings, cycling has not ...


4

Basically it is indeed a patience game. But how often do you change the water, and how much? Since your doing a fishless cycle (which is indeed the recommened way to do it), you don't actually have to do water changes. If you replace to much water, it's indeed possible that your cycling has to start all over again every time. Just let it rest for about 3-4 ...


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