I don't think there really is any safer method of protecting your fish and other animals than physically removing them from the fumigated apartment. I wouldn't trust anything else to be 100% reliable and guarantee their survival.
Please note that, while insecticides are extremely toxic to fish, they are even more toxic to invertebrates - shrimps, snails, etc. If you cannot temporarily rehome all the animals, please at least rehome the shrimps and snails because they are the most sensitive.
However, I also understand that moving even a small aquarium is incredibly impractical and disruptive for the biological balance because it requires removing all the water from it, usually also the substrate; there is also a risk of breaking the glass during transport.
Having said that, if relocating the aquariums nor rehoming the fish are not viable options, you definitely need to isolate the aquariums with airtight barriers to prevent any insecticide fumes from coming in contact with the water. Plastics are not imprevious to all chemicals - especially not to organic compounds as they could still diffuse through - but covering the aquariums even with common plastic foil is definitely better than nothing. It would be really good if you could get hold of a foil made of PTFE (also known as Teflon) to wrap the aquariums in it - this material is the most inert and impermeable of all plastics; containers made of PTFE are used to store especially aggressive chemicals that damage or seep through other materials. PTFE foil might hopefully be available in your local hardware store.
Please note that even using airtight material doesn't necessarily mean that the resulting seal will be completely airtight - and I won't expect it to be, there are probably going to be at least a few imperfections. However, to increase the chances, I definitely recommend using large amounts of duct tape - especially while wrapping the plastic foil around places like power cords of the filter, etc.
It is also essential to seal/disable any airflow inlets that would let the air (and thus the insecticide fumes) in the aquarium - like the air tube of the filter. The filtration itself, however, must stay on in the aquariums - or else you risk breaking the nitrogen cycle and getting a potentially fatal ammonia spike.
As Trond Hansen suggested in the comment, it would also be good to use activated carbon/charcoal (from the pet store) in all the aquariums as a preventative measure against the insecticide. Activated carbon adsorps a lot of chemical compounds, including various toxins. It would be the best to place the activated carbon as an additional medium in the filters of all the aquariums in the apartment before the fumigation - in this case, it should always be placed in a way that the water entering the filter passes first through mechanical medium (sponge, etc.) before passing through activated carbon layer. If it is placed the other way around, the activated carbon would quickly become clogged with larger particulates and this would waste its potential - the carbon would stop being active long before its adsorption capacity was exhausted. If the filters are also using biological media, like ceramic rings, etc. then it is less important as to whether the carbon is placed before or after the biological media.
If it is not possible to place the activated carbon inside the filter as a medium, it could be placed somewhere else in the water column, optimally in a place with high flux of water current. In this case, it is also advised to contain the activated carbon in some sort of "bag" made of aquarium-safe, water-permeable material - for example, it could be wrapped in a layer of filter floss (please ask about this material in the pet store); this will make it much easier to remove all the carbon later. All the carbon must be removed from the aquariums at some point; it is because it will eventually get saturated and from then on it could begin to release all the adsorped substances back into the water column. Please use the information provided by the manufacturer on the package to decide at which point you should remove the carbon from the aquariums.
On the top of that, you must take into account that isolating the aquarium the way I described is going to cut it off from the supply of atmospheric oxygen. It is not going to be a problem immediately, but the oxygen is eventually going to get depleted and it is a huge problem because obviously you cannot expose the aquarium to the insecticide-contaminated air. My guess as to how long would it take to deplete the oxygen in this scenario is anywhere between a few hours to a few days; it is hard to tell because it depends on a lot of factors: bioload, amount of photosynthetic activity in the tanks (which in turn depends on illumination, density and type of the plants), volume of air sealed within the aquariums, etc. For this reason, I would strongly suggest rehoming the fish temporarily - just the fish - this will remove the problem of seal-induced oxygen deprivation in the aquarium and let you focus on sealing the aquariums from the air.
According to the manufacturer's website, Raid Fogger uses etofenprox as its active ingredient. As Wikipedia says, toxicity of pyrethrins in aquatic environment increases with temperature, so I'd advise you to lower the water temperature in all the aquariums to the lowest that is still safe for fish, for at least a week or two. Etofenprox is not a pyrethrin, it is a pyrethroid derivative; pyrethroids are closely related to pyrethrins because they are synthetic analogues of them. This is why I think it is reasonable to assume that this general information from the article about pyrethrins applies to the fogger applied in your apartment.
I am sorry that I cannot do anything more, I really want to help you and your fish, but we are limited by the fact that Pets SE isn't really meant to be a reliable acute-response, real-time emergency help for situations like this.
