How do I convince my dog that a collar or harness is not the end of the world?

Question

We have a very sweet 6 month old shepherd rescue. He was part of an urban feral pack until he was captured, and he spent ~2 mos in the shelter office, getting adjusted to people before we got him one month ago.

He's come a long, long way in the month we've had him. He eats out of our hands and plays "touch" and fetch and doesn't get into things that aren't his to get into (except when he really, really wants attention -- then he'll come steal a piece of paper from me or grab a sock off the drying rack). He is super playful in the morning. We're working on bite inhibition, but he definitely wants to play with us.

However, he really does not want a leash or collar on. Or a harness. He wants nothing buckled around him. We've done enough positive reenforcement games that he comes running over (for a treat) when we get the collars out (we have a bunch, for no good reason) or buckle/unbuckle them. He takes all his meals from a hand stuck through a collar, but I cannot, cannot, cannot snap anything around his neck. If I get close he lashes out and if I persist he gets more hostile.

I've played some games -- if I can touch him with the balled up collar, he gets a treat. If he sticks his head partway through, treat. We do a lot of petting and scratching around the collar area, which he doesn't love, but doesn't fight.

I got a collar on him once, by making him stick his head farther and farther through it for yummy chicken, but I haven't been able to repeat that. He has a little plastic tag-collar thing that we've snapped a leash onto, but the times we've done that (twice) it was hours before we could get close enough to get it back off.

We have a harness, but that has two buckles and isn't any easier to get on him. He's really, really, really wary of any restraint.

Any ideas for more structured ways to acclimate him to having a collar, and eventually a leash put on? He loves other dogs but we can't take him to see other dogs if we can't leave the house!

Update: I'm keeping my selected answer, but we finally got a sliplead which works well. He snarls when we put it on, so it take some confidence -- I wear a makeshift bite glove to help me feel like I can do it. Getting the lead off is tricky, but doable. He's actually just fine once the lead is on. He walks at my side and says hello to other dogs and doesn't give me any trouble. It is just the on and off that are high drama. Still: now that I have a technique, he goes out 2-3 times a day and he's starting to be more relaxed about the process.

** Another Update:** It's been six weeks since we started taking him out on walks regularly and the snarling is over. I did a lot of feeling around on his neck everytime I put it on or took it off, and he's adjusted to the idea that the leash is his key to adventure. He still bows his head and tries to evade the leash but he'll let me put it on and take it off without fussing.

Answer 1

It sounds like you are on the right path. All the positive reinforcement will help him learn to learn and trust you as well. Don't give up... you will get there.

If it feels like you have hit a wall it's probably one of two things. ..or a combination. Either he has figured out the "game" or you went to fast at some point. Either way it will help if you change the game a bit so that you are helping him generalize it. In other words you can show him more and more things that are OK so eventually he will learn that just about anything you do to him is ok.

So some things to try... put a piece of fabric on his back, around his leg, touch his tail with it. Change it so it is a sock that you are using or a shirt. Can you get to the point where you can put it over his foot? What about getting him to stick his nose in it (this may also help anyone working on muzzle training too). Can you get him to walk under a sheet that is draped between two chairs? What if it is on the ground and you hold it up...can you get him to push through it with it touching his back? Every time you work on it try to change it just a little and keep your sessions super short... like some of them should be 5 seconds... you want to end with him wanting more not you pushing to get one last good try. If you get any good progress forward stop and take even a short 5 minute break before you come back to it. Your dog will come back to training with more enthusiasm and willingness.

All of those things will help him understand that every thing you ask him to do will be ok. It will also take his focus away frrim trying to keep you from putting a restraint on him. This will also keep him guessing... he wont be able yo predict what your goal is. Reward the smallest progress and remember to reward anytime he is really trying for you even if he doesn't guess right. The reward doesn't always have to be food it can be playing with a toy or just getting some love.

Only try to actually put the collar on him when he is tired. Exercise him as much as you can. Give him a bunch of brain work then let him start to settle down. Once he is calm then you can try a little to get it on him. Once it is on leave it on for as long as you can. Let him sleep in it.

Most of all have patience and don't give up. Our dogs are often much more strong willed than we are so it works better if you can convince him it is his idea that the collar is the best thing ever.

Answer 2

It's sounding to me like the main issue is the clicking of the buckle. So perhaps for the time being, if you can use some paracord to fasten a harness that he can wear, just to get used to having something around his neck/shoulders. Then in the meantime, you could try to get him used to the sound of the buckle clicking together.

Keep playing the games you're already playing, they sound like they're working. But maybe add a new game where you have him sit next to you as you click the buckle together. Start by giving him a treat, then clicking the buckle together. After a few times of doing so, try giving him a treat as your clicking the buckle together. The goal is to work your way towards giving him a treat after the buckle click, so he associates the sound of the buckle with getting a treat (clicker training essentially).

After you notice him start to "perk up" at the sound of the buckle, you can start to work on buckling it around him. He should be focused on getting a treat more than he notices that he's suddenly wearing a collar.

Answer 3

I know this is probably too late as you've probably fixed it or given up by now, but I just wanted to add my 2 cents. I've trained horses and it's given me a different perspective. I see a lot of people who, for lack of a better term, force something onto a dog, because they can do it and out fight the dog. You can't out fight a horse, so it takes different techniques that I believe will work with a dog like this.

One thing used heavily with horses is approach and retreat. This is a technique where you take something scary for the horse, like wearing a halter for the first time and approach it in baby steps. You get to where you can pet the horse with the halter in hand, then rub the horse with it, then put the string around their neck, then scoop their nose, and finally tie it. However, you don't do these things in one go. You may rub the horse with the halter and then walk away 20 times. It may take a couple of days if you're taking your time before you move onto the next step. You also don't focus too intently on just that. You rub them with the halter, then pick up their feet, then toss a rope around, then rub them with the halter again. It's short light sessions that leave them with a positive impression of the halter. You can do the same thing with the dog.

Try to pet him with the collar, the play with a toy. Use a clicker to teach him to fetch the collar and lead like a toy. Sit in your chair while he's in the room, watch tv, and click the buckle a lot. It's a slow desensitization process. Once the collar is on, let him drag the lead around all day. You do this with older stronger horses. He's not fighting you, he's fighting the leash. He'll step on it, get it wrapped around table legs, etc... Just keep an eye on him and don't interfere unless you need to untangle it.

Once he's okay with it being on and you want to teach him to lead, don't ask him to come to you, stand off to the side and put slight pressure on the lead. When he come off the pressure, give him a treat. For horses, the treat is the release of pressure. The dog will come to associate the pull of the leash with good things. Just remember you're only looking for a step at first, or even a shifting of the weight. You pull to the side, because they can brace forward and backward.

I figure it's too late, but I hope this helps you or someone else improve on their relationship with their dog.

PS- I meant to add that I don't think a harness is a good idea, except as a backup if you think the dog will slip the lead. Harness' were designed for tracking dogs to be able to follow a scent without having the collar pull their neck up away from it. People have been going to these as well as the extendable leashes in recent years, but it gives them a solid surface to pull against, like a sled dog, and encourages bad behavior. The same with the extendable leash. You have less control and your dog can get into a lot of mischief.

Answer 4

'Super pet' makes a harness that has buckles and Velcro. I am not sure it comes in a size big enough for your dog. But when I use it on rabbits I cut the buckles off and just use the Velcro. You may also be able to find dog "outfits" that Velcro on to work on harness training.

Alternatively you can get some Velcro and make a training collar. Maybe make a very large circle that he can walk through, and keep making it smaller.

Answer 5

My Dalmatian and to a lesser extent, also my American Pitbull, used to have this same issue. The Dalmatian would squirm for hours on end, trying repeatedly to come back after 20 minutes of trying at a time. Any time an attempt was made at a collar put on around the neck, she would abhor it and would move every direction. If somehow you managed to get one limb through, a quick maneuver removed your hard work. Eventually, I got a buckling harness that you place on the back, snap to the front. It's a trick she can't avoid other than to run away. Finally, I have gotten a dog walker who uses a loop around the neck. It takes seconds! My dog enjoys the lack of restraint.

In conclusion, go to a store and try different leash/harness combinations. Eventually, you'll find an easier method.