There are two basic types of substrates for bearded dragons, there are benefits and downsides to both, and it comes down to what you feel is safe for your bearded dragon, and what you feel you can manage for cleaning.
In short, particle substrates allow the bearded dragon to dig, which is something they do enjoy doing, but gives a risk of impaction from ingesting the substrate. It can also be considered difficult, or annoying, to keep clean, and needs to be replaced at regular intervals.
Meanwhile non-particle substrate remove the risk of impaction, but will most likely require you to provide other means of allowing your bearded dragon to dig. Artificial surfaces can be difficult for bearded dragons to walk on, either catching their claws, or being too slippery to provide traction.
Particle Substrates:
I have to admit, I have a personal bias against sand as I write this, but sand is regarded by many reptile enthusiasts as being a poor choice for a substrate because of its many health risks, that are viewed as outweighing its benefits.
Sand is unfortunatelythe most common substrate being marketed as the "proper"proper substrate, because for bearded dragons. Because bearded dragons come from the desert, and it's easy to market sand as a desert substrate. In realitytruth, theira bearded dragon's natural substrate would be a mixture of hard packed dirt, clay, and rocks.
Sand iscan be considered a bad idea becausechoice for bearded dragons are messy eaters, so if you feed them in their terrarium, they'll inevitably ingest some sand. Since they can't digest sand, it creates the risk of impaction, where it clogs up their digestive system and they will losedragon's substrate for the use of their limbs and die. Even if you don't feed them in their terrarium, bearded dragons will 'explore' with their tongues. Mine will still lick things in his enclosure that have been there ever since I set it up.following reasons:
- Bearded dragons are messy eaters, so if you feed them in their terrarium, they'll inevitably ingest some sand. Because sand is indigestible, it creates the risk of impaction, a medical condition where the bearded dragon's intestines are blocked, causing paralysis and death.
- Bearded dragons "explore" with their mouths. Meaning that even if you don't feed them in their terrarium, the risk for impaction still exists. Mine will still lick things in his enclosure that have been there ever since I set it up.
- Sand is dusty, which can lead to respiratory problems if the bearded dragon inhales it. Or cause infections if it gets into their eyelids.
- This is dependant on the person taking care of the terrarium, but sand can be considered difficult, or annoying, to keep clean. If fecal matter is left behind, the sand will readily harbor bacteria, causing the terrarium to smell. If it is not kept sanitary your reptile to be exposed to a greater risk of infections/parasites.
Another issue is that sand is extremely difficult to keep clean. If fecal matter is left behind,On the sand will readily harbor bacteriaother hand, causing the terrarium to smell and your reptile todamp sand can be exposedone of the best substrates to use for a greater risk of infections/parasitesgravid female, as she will wish to bury her eggs.
The bad part is that it's not actually sand but calcium carbonate found in limestone and chalk, and is actually a leading ingredient in TUMs. The side-effects of this will mean that your bearded dragon will have a harder time digesting their food because of the effect it has in neutralizing stomach acids. And if the bearded dragon feels like it needs more calcium in its diet and eats more of the sand, the effect will only get worse.
For this reason, calci-sand should be avoided in favor of plain sand.
Included with the calcium-sand is sand that has been dyed different colors. The problem with the dye is that it permanently stains the bearded dragon's skin. I do not know of any health concerns that have been linked to the dyes though. My recommendation would again to stick to plain sand.
Compacted Soil
As I mentioned, a more natural substrate for bearded dragons is compacted soil. I've heard of people mimicking this substrate type by using a mixture of about 50/50 topsoil and sand (the kind you get for children's sandboxes).
The benefit of this is that the compacted dirt is less likely to get ingested, and even if it does, the dirt is less likely to cause impaction by itself, and it keeps the sand from clumping together, which is what causes impaction.
The downside to this substrate is, like all particle substrates, that it can be difficult/annoying to keep clean and needs to be replaced at regular intervals.
Crushed Walnut
You can find substrate made from crushed walnut shells in some pet stores. This substrate Should never be used for bearded dragons. The crushed shells have extremely sharp edges, and will cause damage to a bearded dragon's internal organs if ingested.
Coconut Fiber
This substrate is meant for tropical reptiles, because of it's ability to retain moisture. In a desert terrarium, where that amount of moisture isn't needed, the dry coconut fiber contains too much dust to be safe.
Wood Chips
Wood chips pose a similar risk to bearded dragons as crushed walnut. While not as consistently sharp, they can still cause damage to a bearded dragons internal organs if ingested.
Non-Particle Substrates:
Reptile Carpet
Reptile carpet is a goodsimple alternative to particle substrates. It comes in a roll of felt fabric that you can lay down at the bottom of the terrarium. The positive side of reptile carpet is that it's easy to clean; you can simply take is out and rinse it off. The downside is that bearded dragons' claws have been known to get caught in the fibers.
Recently I've seen new forms of reptile carpet, that instead of felt, they've taken to simulating sand textures. Which would effectively eliminate the risk of the bearded dragon's claws getting caught on the carpet. My only concern would be the damage that the bearded dragon could do to the carpet, by attempting to dig at it, could require the carpet to be replaced every so often.
You can use paper towels, and then you wouldn't have to worry about theirthe bearded dragon's claws getting caught, like you would with the felt carpet, but as soon a paper towel is soiled you're going to have to replace it. This can get fairly pricey depending on the cost of paper towels at your store.
WhatSlate tile is what I personally think is the best substrate (the, seeing as it's the one I use), is slate tile. It's
Like other non-particle substrates, it's easy to clean, and has no risk of impaction. But, it holdsalso has the benefits of holding heat well, and it even helps keep their claws worn down naturally so you'll never have to worry about trimming them yourself. Simply pick whatever shade of gray/brown
Because you wantcan purchase slate tile at your local hardware store, you can usually find many more varieties in colors than you would find for reptile carpet, and the floorcolors look closer to benatural substrate colors (you can probably find sand colored tiles if you prefer the look of sand), and have it cut to fit the floor of the terrarium.
Some people go so far as to add grout, I opted not to so that I could take the tiles out in order to clean them, but having grout does have the benefit of keeping dirt from getting in between the tiles. It's really up to you on which method you prefer.
Compacted Soil
As I mentioned with the sand, a more natural substrate for bearded dragons is compacted soil. I've heard of people mimicking this substrate type by using a mixture of about 50/50 topsoil and sand (the kind you get for children's sandboxes). The benefit of this is that the compacted dirt is less likely to get ingested, and even if it does, dirt is organic and less likely to cause impaction (as opposed to sand which is tiny rocks). It also provides them with a substrate that they can dig in if they want. Although it has the same sanitary issues as sand does as a substrate.