Bearded dragon setup includes:

• 55Gal Tank
• Repti-Carpet or newspaper bedding
• UVA/UVB tube lighting with a mercury vapor bulb basking light (also includes UVA/UVB). These lights should not be blocked by screen or glass as it blocks most UV radiation and should be changed every 6 months to a year.
• Large water dish for soaking/drinking (shallow for young dragons), some beardies prefer to defecate in their water dishes.
• Should have at least 1 digital thermometer at his basking end of the cage to make sure it does not exceed 110F and not go below 95F
• Cooler side should be in the 80's while night time temps should not go below 75F

Picture below will give you an idea:

Larger beardies can eat superworms, waxworms, butterworms, hornworms. You can feed a dragon of any age vegetables (more veggies as adults and less insects). Some good choices of greens are bok choy, kale, butternut squash, zuchinni, carrots, snap peas. You can even sprinkle pellets on their veggies as well.

99% of the time reptile problems are because of poor habitat. If you have yet to bring a fecal sample to your veterinarian please do! These guys almost ALWAYS have parasites which can cause inappetence, diarrhea (blood in stool), weight loss, lethargy. My bearded dragon had 5 different parasites when I purchased him as a baby, I have yet to see a lizard/snake that did not have some sort of parasite.

If you're on oxbow carnivore care you can feed that until he gets his appetite back. Rule of thumb for supplementation: multivitamin once a week and calcium every second day.

Once he's done growing or if you've purchased him as an adult I recommend a survey radiograph to confirm that bone density is good.

Bearded dragon setup includes:

• 55 gallon (210 liters) tank.
• Repti-Carpet or newspaper bedding.
• UVA/UVB tube lighting with a mercury vapor bulb basking light (also includes UVA/UVB). These lights should not be blocked by screen or glass as it blocks most UV radiation. Also, the bulbs should be changed every 6 months to a year.
• Large water dish for soaking/drinking (shallow for young dragons), some beardies prefer to defecate in their water dishes.
• It should have at least 1 digital thermometer at his basking end of the cage to make sure it does not exceed 110 °F (43 °C) and does not go below 95 °F (35 °C).
• Cooler side should be in the 80's °F (around 29 °C) while night time temperatures should not go below 75 °F (24 °C).

Picture below will give you an idea:

Larger beardies can eat superworms, waxworms, butterworms and hornworms. You can feed a dragon of any age vegetables (more veggies as adults and less insects). Some good choices of greens are bok choy, kale, butternut squash, zucchini, carrots and snap peas. You can even sprinkle pellets on their veggies as well.

99% of the time, reptile problems are because of poor habitat. If you have yet to bring a fecal sample to your veterinarian, please do! These guys almost ALWAYS have parasites which can cause inappetence, diarrhea (with blood in stool), weight loss and lethargy. My bearded dragon had 5 different parasites when I purchased him as a baby, I have yet to see a lizard/snake that did not have some sort of parasite.

If you're on oxbow carnivore care you can feed that until he gets his appetite back. Rule of thumb for supplementation: multivitamin once a week and calcium every second day.

Once he's done growing or if you've purchased him as an adult I recommend a survey radiograph to confirm that bone density is good.